Bio-Security & Cleaning Advice to Trainers for Residential Kennels
Deep cleaning and a daily routine of cleaning and disinfection of all
kennels and transport vehicles are key to preventing and stopping the
spread of dangerous bacteria.
cleansing is very labour intensive, and is normally reserved for
instances where disease has entered a kennels, or where low grade
disease cannot be resolved. The effort required for a proper cleansing
and disinfection (sometimes called deep cleaning) is reduced when the
routine bio-security procedures are used, since the kennels will
already be fairly clean. Vehicles used for transporting greyhounds will
also need to be included in this programme.
Any dogs will need to be removed out of the kennels which are to be cleaned and moved to a secure area.
clothing and observance of health and safety regulations is very
important due to the hazards of pressure washing and disinfectant
spraying in enclosed spaces.
Cleansing and disinfection is broken down into several stages:
of bedding (for burning), temporary dividers, cages, tables and
equipment, and the emptying of food stores so that the inaccessible
areas can be reached. Cabinets and food stores not fixed down will also
need to be removed for cleaning.
- Cleaning of all soiled
areas, the removal of all grease and hair, high level dust and cobwebs
from all surfaces including the items removed in step 1.
washing, preferably with a steam cleaner. All organic debris must be
removed at this stage to avoid concealing and protecting any germs.
Putty knives and small brushes are very useful here. Take care with
electrical fixings to avoid water ingress, or better still turn off the
power and seek professional advice on protecting the electrics.
Remember to clean the outside walls and concrete areas, and the removed
items from step 1.
- An approved disinfectant made up to the correct dilution is then sprayed onto all surfaces. This is allowed to dry.
can be made at this time, including the sealing of concrete and
brick-work. For cleanliness and hygiene reasons, we know that wooden
kennels are not ideal so must have a greater frequency of cleaning and
disinfection. In the longer term, if residential kennels are to be
renovated then they should be replaced with brick built or equivalent.
- Another application of disinfectant may be used and allowed to dry.
removable items should also be treated, including the additional
sterilization of all feeding equipment and utensils with cold
- Due to the amounts of water and
disinfectant that are likely to be used, consideration must be given to
the ways in which the dirty water will leave the premises, including
the possible contamination of water supplies.
disinfectant has dried, the equipment may be reinstalled and the
kennels put back into use. Record the date, and the name and amount of
Deep cleansing and disinfection can be
built into the general yearly routines for a kennel, with bio-security
procedures in use during the daily running of the kennel.
Routine Bio-Security in Residential Kennels
At Times of Increased Disease Risk
washing. Hand washing with plain soaps or detergents suspends
micro-organisms and allows them to be rinsed off; hand washing with
antimicrobial-containing products kills or inhibits the growth of
Protective clothing is a physical barrier to infection
which can be easily replaced. Boiler suits and rubber boots are the
simplest. Dirty overalls can be washed at 60 °C after removing any
obvious soiling. Attention should be paid to the grips on the boot
soles where matter can be trapped.
disinfection, contaminated surfaces should be cleaned. Tables, floors,
cages, walls, and doors should be physically cleaned of obvious matter.
They can either be scraped when dry, or wetted first to loosen hardened
matter. Small hand-held steam cleaners are available for stubborn
Disinfection of floors and surfaces, as well as of the
utensils and bowls in daily use, is the basis of reducing the amount of
germs in the environment, and this will decrease the risk of disease.
food and water bowls should be provided as these provide an easy method
of disease transfer. Food bowls must be kept clean and not left in the
kennels where the food and saliva may dry on the bowl. Fresh water must
be available at all times. Shared water bowls in the paddocks should be
avoided in each greyhound is supplied with a clean bowl and fresh water,
to be removed when the dog is removed.
Muzzles should be washed and then dipped in a disinfectant solution after each use.
jackets and bedding should be washed at 60 °C (or the hottest allowable
for the material). Clean bedding should always be provided.
Adequate ventilation is important in removing stagnant air. Dogs kept
in poorly ventilated kennels do tend to cough more due to the build up
of dusts and ammonia fumes.
Transport: all vans or vehicles should be included in the routine disinfection procedure.
All dogs with suspected infectious diseases should be kept in an
isolated area of the kennel, this means a separate building with its
own doors and airspace. The number of staff members entering the
isolation area should be kept to a minimum, ideally being dedicated
just to the care of the isolated animals. Upon entry into the isolation
area, outerwear should be removed and disposable shoe covers placed
over the shoes or a footbath filled with disinfectant should be placed
by the exit and used when leaving the area. New dogs brought into the
kennels should be isolated in the same manner for seven days and also
observed for any signs of ill-health. Veterinary attention should be
sought if in doubt.
Foot bath with the approved disinfectant at the entrance to the kennel
block will encourage cleanliness. The solution must be changed as
organic matter inactivates some disinfectants and can be a source of
infection. An ideal method is to have a plain water bath to remove the
gross soiling, then the disinfectant in a second bath. A stiff-bristle
boot brush should be provided, and a nearby hose point for washing off